If you are looking for a workout that’s a little more interesting and less judgmental or you are trying to eventually climb outside, indoor rock climbing is the perfect activity. (Warning: it can and does provide an intense full body workout)
Indoor rock climbing and rock climbing is quickly gaining popularity throughout the world with more gyms to go to, more schools and business including a wall in their space, and with multiple climbing events being included in the next olympics!
This article will go through the basics of indoor rock climbing. I’ll go through the different types of climbing, the rating systems, equipment you’ll need and where you can go to climb.
Bouldering
The first type of indoor rock climbing is bouldering. Bouldering is a form of climbing that is done on smaller rock formations and artificial rock walls. This form of climbing does not use any ropes or harnesses. All that is needed are rock climbing shoes and chalk.
Bouldering is often used as the best way to introduce people to the world of rock climbing or (to many experienced climbers) its used to work on technique, strength and conditioning, and dynamic moves. Its also important to note that a lot of indoor competitions are centered around bouldering.
Bouldering typically uses the V scale (named after creator John ‘Vermin’ Sherman) rating system to set the difficulty of the routes.
VB,V0-V3 is typically considered beginner routes.
V4-V6 typically considered intermediate.
V6+ typically considered Advanced.
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Top Rope
The second type of indoor rock climbing and one of the most popular is top rope climbing. Top rope climbing allows you to climb higher walls and (I would say) is considered a bit safer. It is a form of climbing where the climber is securely tied to a rope which then passes up through an anchor system and down to a belayer (an individual that is responsible for keeping the rope taught and keeping the climber from falling all the way to the ground).
In order to participate in this form of climbing, you do either have to take the top rope course (typically pretty cheap and is only one hour) or hire a trained individual to belay the climber. The belay/top rope course simply shows the climber how to belay and how to tie the figure 8 climbing knot. It is also a good way to get comfortable with falling as well as being on a higher wall.
Top rope climbing uses the Yosemite Decimal Rating system that follows a 5.0- 5.15 scale. This rating system is also largely used for outdoor rock climbing.
5.0-5.9 is considered beginner
5.10a-5.11d is considered intermediate
5.12a-5.13d is considered advanced
5.14a-5.15c is considered pro.
*letters (or sometimes +/-) are added to ratings to differentiate types of routes for that rating.
Often indoor gyms will lend out equipment for an additional fee (usually a couple extra dollars). But for top rope climbing shoes, chalk/chalk bag, harness, belay device and locking carabiner are required.
Lead Climbing
The last and most difficult form of indoor rock climbing is lead climbing. In lead climbing one climber has to take the lead with the others following after. The lead climber wears a harness attached to a rope, which in turn is connected to the other climber below the lead climber. While ascending the route, the lead climber periodically connects the rope to protection equipment for safety in the event of a fall. In indoor lead climbing the protection equipment is often a carabiner that is drilled into the rock climbing wall. The belayer (climber below) gives out rope so that the climber may clip the rope in to the carabiners while also stoping the rope if and when the climber falls.
It is important to note that this form of climbing is often learned by climbers who are in the intermediate and above range in top rope. Instructors often tell climbers to climb two rating lower than your usual top rope rating (lead climbing also follows the Yosemite Rating system) when doing lead climbing due to the additional strain of clipping into carabiners with one hand while holding onto the wall with the other. When lead climbing the rope is also located between the climbers legs instead of above in an anchor in top rope.
Though it is difficult, lead climbing is vital to learn in order to do many outdoor climbing routes due to the height of rock faces as well as the requirement to use safety equipment (bolts, quick-draws, nuts and cams). For indoor you do have to be certified by taking an additional class that varies in length and are required to have (in addition to the top rope equipment) a rock climbing rope which is usually 9.9 mm in diameter and various lengths.
Gyms
While the list would be too long to put every state, below are some of the more popular rock climbing gyms in CT, RI and MA. Most of these gyms you can climb for $20 for the day that also includes equipment rentals. The top rope course is also usually $20 and includes equipment and the opportunity to climb after the duration of the course.
CT
Prime Climb
340 Quinnipiac St Ste 28, Wallingford
Central Rock Gym
259 Eastern Blvd, Glastonbury
Stone Age Rock Gym
195 Adams Street, Manchester
MA
Central Rock Gym
299 Barber Ave, Worcester
Central Rock Gym
1451 Concord Street, Framingham
Central Rock Gym
74 Acton Street, Watertown
Rock Spot Climbing
67 Sprague Street, Boston
RI
Rock Spot Climbing
1174 Kingstown Road, Wakefield
Central Rock Gym
275 W Natick Rd, Warwick
Rock Spot Climbing
42 Rice Street Providence
*if you have a membership with Central Rock Gym you can get into any of their locations for free.
Climbers to follow
Sasha Digiulian
Alex Honnold
Emily Harrington
Isaac Caldiero
Meagan Martin
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